26.6.2022

De Moor - Chitry 2019

We drink a Chardonnay Chitry 2019 from De Moor to conclude the small Burgundy series.

After red last week, we drink once again a Chardonnay to finish the small series of wines from Burgundy. This time it comes from the Chitry appellation. The commune of Chitry is located slightly south-west of the commune of Chablis very close to the winery in Courgis. The wine is made by Alice and Olivier De Moor. It was not so long ago that we had the Aligoté of the winery in the glass. So nothing has changed in the fact that they grow wine organically on about 7 hectares. Since I really liked the Aligoté, I thought it was time to open a Chardonnay from them as well. The grapes are fermented spontaneously. The wine is aged in a combination of used barrique, large wooden barrels and tanks for about a year, with little sulfur and no fining or filtration when bottled.

The wine starts very quietly on the nose. Some wood and a bit of local pit fruit are there. This is super clean, fine, elegant but you can still feel energy behind it. On the tongue there is quite fine structure, reminiscent of pith. The acidity is fresh, the wine is super juicy and the tannin quite fine as well. It’s unobtrusive but not boring and quite long to boot.

A night makes the wine more intense. There is just a bit more of everything. More structure, more crumbly apple, but also partly green apple, more pear and some citrus. It all plays together and none of it imposes itself or stands out somehow. There is also not so much to describe right now. At the same time, I don’t feel like anything is missing or too little or too one-dimensional. The elegance and balance are just beautiful. The length fits, the acidity fits, the mouthfeel is good. This is creamy, crisp, fruity, fine, harmonious and in total a pretty complete wine.

Thus, the wine is also a nice conclusion to our entry into Burgundy. I realize that this was at most a small sniff and I definitely want to discover more Burgundy in the future. It might just turn out that the limit is more often than not the pricetag.

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