As announced last week, the year here on the blog comes to an end with two brutal wines. Christian Tschida is certainly one of my favorite winemakers and everything we have had from him in the glass so far has been a delightful experience. The wines always have this mix of lightness, elegance and at the same time depth, complexity and energy that you don’t find that often. So I found it only fitting that the Brutal from him from 2020 forms the conclusion of this year here. At the same time, it’s kind of a nice parenthesis, since the year also started with Tschida. Brutal is made entirely from Pinot Noir, aged in large wooden barrels and then bottled without filtration or fining, and also without added sulfur.
Out of the glass comes a lot of cherry, plum cake with butter crumble, a few seeds and currants. But someone was lazy and has left the panicles on a good part of the currants still on. I think that sums it up quite well. In the mouth, the wine seems very elegant, light and fresh. The tannin is rather restrained anyway and the little that is there then feels like silk on the tongue. This all helps the wine drink extremely easily in extremely large sips and the only 11.5% is also great. Saufwein. I would not have guessed the pure Pinot though. But since I can not say exactly what I would have guessed otherwise, it doesn’t really mather anyway. This wine delivers once again what makes the wines of Tschida so great. As much as I celebrate the fruit right now, there is so much going on behind it in the quiet tones. Light spice, some stone, some forest floor. You can listen if you want to, but if you don’t, this is still brutally fun.
The wine is more intense on the nose the next day. At the same time, the scent seems a bit dirtier. The fruit continues to be berry, fresh raspberries, currants, panicles and very subtle forest floor. The tannin is as it was on the first evening, soft and restrained. The acidity brings tremendous freshness to the wine and as already written, the glass drinks itself. This would certainly cut at least as good a figure slightly chilled in summer temperatures. It would also be exciting to see how this matures and how the wine develops. Right now, anyway, I’m patting ourselves on the back that we even managed to say it was as good on the second night as it was on the first. That was a real feat of will, because I’ll say it again: Saufwein!