As announced, we remain with the grape variety Weissburgunder. However, we change the growing region to the Palatinate. From the Siebeldinger site Im Sonnenschein on the wine route Südliche Weinstraße, we already had a bottle of Riesling in the glass some time ago. From the same winery, Ökonomierat Rebholz, we try this time the Weissburgunder Große Gewächs from the year 2016. Unlike many other Weissburgunders, this one is not matured in wood but the wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks. Thus, of course, the characteristics of the grape variety but also the site is emphasized and a little less what the winemaker does in the cellar. The vines for the wine stand on shell limestone on a southern slope. In the Palatinate, that means lots of sun. The name of the vineyard fits (which means In the sunshine when translated).
The nose is intense. Lots of minerality, passion fruit, mirabelle, pear, pineapple, gooseberry jam and butter crumble. There’s so much going on, the fruit is so fresh, so clear and really fun and the minerality to it brings depth and seriousness. This continues in the mouth as well. Even there, the wine brings decent stone to the tongue, has great acidity and fine spice out the back. No trace of the few years in the bottle.
The play of fruit and minerality on the nose and the increasingly crisp acidity define the entire evening. The emerging citrus blends in perfectly. Personally, I like wood notes in Weissburgunder even when they are quite strong at times. But this wine lacks nothing and the decision to not focus on the wood here can be more than understood when drinking. The clarity that the wine brings to the tongue is great.
After a night in the fridge, the fruit seems a bit more ripe and restrained. In the mouthfeel, a creamy note has been added. Everything seems a bit softer, more rested. There’s still the freshness from the acidity and the mineral structure, of course, but the light creaminess, the herbaceousness and the slightly riper fruit give the wine a sense of serenity. The clarity and elegance and simultaneous intensity are what make the wine anyway. Even at the very end of the second evening, new aromas still come to the nose with each swirl. And as with the Riesling from the same house, I have the feeling that we are at the very beginning and the wine can show what it showed right now for many years to come. A wine I will definitely compare other Weissburgunders to in the future. Awesome.