Finally, you can buy Vacherin Mont d’Or again. The cheese is only produced between August and March and sold between September and May. For historical reasons, this is linked to the time when the cows were taken from the mountain pastures and is still practised today, thanks to its protected origin. We water the wooden box, add small cuts to the cheese, put a shot of white wine on it and stuck a clove of garlic in before putting it in the oven. It is then eaten with bread or potatoes like a cheese fondue and tastes great. We drink a wine from the Jura along it. This time this is a 2018 Savagnin Les Molates from the Domaine des Marnes Blanches. Savagnin is known in our region as Traminer and in this case it is aged in old wooden barrels after direct pressing. The wine is then aged ouillé, which means reductively with topping up. This is in contrast to the traditional ageing process in the Jura, where the wine is not refilled and the air and flor yeast layer in the barrel provide oxidation and very special aromas.
Nevertheless, one has the feeling of having a few oxidative notes in the nose immediately after opening. At first yeasty, a bit stinky and also a bit nutty. In the background, however, fruit is already getting ready, with pears and other fruit from the orchard. Nevertheless, the Savagnin is difficult to grasp. The smell is intense and dense and it is difficult to pick out individual aromas. What is easy to notice is the crisp acidity on the tongue and a nice, minimally salty minerality. We simply give the fragrance a little more time.
The nose becomes herbaceous and green walnuts can be smelled now. The wine is exciting in any case. In the mouth it develops texture, which fights with the acidity for supremacy and the juiciness demands the next sip. Time for the vacherin. The fat in the cheese dampens the acidity and minerality. Everything becomes soft and harmonious and goes perfectly with it.
One day later the herbiness has gained in importance, we smell some pineapple, further the green walnuts and the pear. The acidity, which was quite brisk at the start, is now perfectly integrated. In the meantime almost creamy in the nose and with a slightly salty feeling on the lips and back of the tongue the last sips disappear. Beautiful wine.
- Bruyére-Houillon - Les Nouvelles 2016
- Buronfosse - Les Ammonites 2018
- Domaine de la Borde - La Marcette 2018