Moritz Kissinger - Null Ohm 2019

We drink the Chardonnay Null Ohm 2019 from Moritz Kissinger from Rheinhessen.

Deep inside me lives a label drinker, and in this case he also took control when the funny grapes of Moritz Kissinger were moving past me in some social media feed. It was only when I tried to buy the bottle of this Chardonnay that I realised that Klaus Peter Keller had praised the wine on Instagram. This was not the post I saw, but due to that it seems to be impossible to get hold of a bottle of the 2018 vintage. Fortunately, the timing was so good that we were able to subscribe to three bottles of the 2019 Null Ohm Chardonnay. Again, there are only 350 bottles that exist at all. It took some convincing in the parental winery that Moritz’s wines would sell at all but I think he achieved that now. Starting next year, the quantities will probably increase. The grapes for the wine are organically grown, there is no filtering and little added sulphur. The Chardonnay should be without drinking resistance. Just zero ohm, hence the name. Moritz Kissinger recommends tasting the wine over 10 days. If it contains what is written on it, then this will probably not be achievable, but we are determined to try our best.

Cork out, nose in. Cool aromas, some wood, a little apple skin. The structure you feel on the tongue is immediately fun. The wine has a great minerality, a crisp acidity and lots of freshness. Super long from the first sip and above all super juicy. This will not last for the 10 days, I already know that right now. Even the test sip develops more structure and power at the back of the palate with every minute. In the nose there is now a bit of nut caramel between the apple skins. This is totally reminiscent of the Launegild from De Fermo, which we had the other day in Ulm.

The wine becomes finer overnight. Now it has more fruit and feels even cooler in the mouth. It also has a buttery creaminess that wasn’t there the first evening. Cinnamon with butter crumbles on the back of the tongue and a little citrus fruit with a bouquet of herbs next to it. Smells more natural vinous, but drinks even faster today.

Day 3: Not much has changed in the nose. But on the tongue. Now the acidity dominates, lots of draught, lots of citrus fruit, lots of power. The creaminess had the disadvantage and had to admit defeat. That is quite sinewy straight now.

A small rest survived until the fourth day. The structure is starting for the final spurt. Salty on the lips, cool, mineral and long. No more fruit, but a little butter again. Together with the first day directly after opening I find it most beautiful in this state. I like it when the wine lives on the structure. Nevertheless, the other bottles may now disappear in the cellar, as this will certainly get even better. Of course there is a bit of hype, but the wine has quality for sure. The inner label drinker has done everything right.

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