As last week there will be bubble participation in the wine selection to fight against sweating. But this time we have more. We have three wines from Weingut Eymann from Gönnheim in the Palatinate in our glass. There is a Riesling Sparkling Wine Extra Brut, a Silvaner Toreye Fumé from 2017 and a Riesling Toreye Alte Reben, and here Alte Reben means old vines with up to 80 years of age and partly still true to their roots, from 2018. The Eymanns have been cultivating their vineyards ecologically since 1984 and are thus among the organic pioneers in the Palatinate. Their son Vincent Eymann has been on board for several years and is now responsible for the wines. The Toreye line, from which two of this year’s wines come, is a selection from the Ortswein vineyards and thus lies between the normal Gutswein wines and the Ortswein wines. All three wines are hand picked and then fermented spontaneously in wooden barrels.
We start with the Rieslingsekt. A lot of draught, very fresh, the fellow drinker tastes New Year’s pretzels with low-fat curd. You can feel the long yeast storage, also by the fine frothing in the mouth. With increasing temperature it becomes creamier, in the nose fresh apple is added. The low-fat curd disappears again, the yeast pastry remains. A little sweetness and even more fruit is added. Some citrus, a little orange marmalade and peach. A lot of bite and structure. Unfortunately, the bottle is then empty and the usual tasting one day later must be done mentally. I’m sure it would have been amazing.
Same grape variety, different bottle. The Alte Reben starts cool. Herbal, even more draught than the sparkling wine had, a lot of pressure. At first rather meager and almost without any fruit. Shortly also a bit too alcoholic, but that disappears again and with air comes the typical Riesling fruit. The herbs go back and now there are mirabelle plums and crunchy fresh apples. Very long. Over the evening the wine becomes more and more polished, slimmer, straighter. I can’t feel the warmth of 2018, there is so much power in it, so much juiciness and cool precision.
After a night in the fridge, the little smell of spontaneous fermentation stops by, disappears again and leaves exotic fruit behind. On the tongue you still have the taut herbal spice and the powerful grip of the acid. Great Riesling.
The Silvaner shows a bit of wood, some apple skin and creaminess after pouring. It already starts in the nose and continues on the tongue. Stronger in acidity than I would have expected. Herbs come by as well, but not as intense as with the Riesling. The contour is missing a bit. The wood lessens in the nose with some air, a pity actually, but then to the cheese from some Buffalos from the swabian alb it sings. Fine fruit, the herbs and the very light smoky note are wrapped around the ripened cheese. This is a beautiful combination and all in all the Silvaner really blossoms out for eating.
The next day, the nose is still subtle. Apple, the peel and the fine creaminess. But no chance to get out of the shadow of the Riesling. It is simply too good.