Another one of those wines that have been on the list for ages. Only in contrast to l’Horizon from last week, it has the problem that it is Sauvignon Blanc and I am still more hesitant there than with other wines. Nevertheless, it appears in so many places as an absolute recommendation and must-drink that it is time to try it for ourselves. We drink a Sauvignon Blanc Fumé from Oliver Zeter from the Pfalz harvested in 2015. Oliver Zeter grows different Sauvignon Blanc clones in different vineyards. The Fumé is fermented spontaneously in new and old barriques and then matures in stainless steel until bottling.
After unscrewing, I immediately have two thoughts in my head. The first is that this is fortunately not the kind of Sauvignon Blanc I don’t like and the second is whether someone has hidden wine between all the wood. There is wood, a lot of wood actually in the first nose. Maybe it just holds very well under a screwcap. But at the same time that is only the first impression, because with every swivelling the wood gets better integrated from second to second and makes room for the wine. You can already smell the structure that will later be on the palate. Very dense, full, intense and then there is a bit of green pepper and a bit of exotic fruit at the back. Then comes the passion fruit, ripe, juicy but with much more substance than I have had a lot of times so far.
The wood quickly integrates perfectly and gives an incredible depth to the nose. After only a few minutes in the glass I understand why it is recommended everywhere. In the mouth a slender, very well met acidity, very tidy, at the back out again the structure that already announced itself in the nose and in between the fruit, which would be too much for me in itself, but in combination with the wood and the minerality it is a lot of fun. A lot of tension on the palate, has traction, but is still charming.
With even more air over the evening, the nose becomes more fruity on the one hand, but more difficult to grasp on the other. Where at the beginning the passion fruit was clearly the main focus, there are now more and above all different fruit aromas, which are so closely interwoven that I can’t tell them apart. In addition, the nose as well as the taste becomes more and more mineral, on the tongue a nice creaminess is added, there is citrus fruit and further the acid grip, which demands the next sip.
On the second day a little peach, even more creamy, almost a little buttery. On the tongue it is still very clear, with a salty structure and draught, with melt-in-the-mouth and creaminess and the great fruit. Very easy to drink, demanding if you want, but you can also sip along easily. Simply put, everything is there. The wine makes me a Sauvignon Blanc lover, or at least an Oliver Zeter fan.