In the past, the Siebeldinger Ganshorn was a vineyard designation in its own right, before it was incorporated into the Im Sonnenschein vineyard with the 1971 wine law reform. But of course it has not disappeared and lives on at least in the name of today’s wine. The grapes for “Ganz Horn” im Sonnenschein from the Ökonomierat Rebholz winery are still harvested separately from the old plot and are vinified ecologically as a wine in its own right. Ökonomierat Rebholz is a member of the VDP and the vineyard “Im Sonnenschein” has been awarded the status of “Große Lage”. We therefore drink a lightly matured Riesling GG from 2014.
Immediately after pulling the cork, it smells of yellow fruit, citrus, grapefruit, briefly mango and then juicy, fresh apples. Behind it minerality and a little honey. In order to get an idea of the ripeness you have to concentrate a lot. In the mouth you get a good pull on the tongue, slightly bitter at the edges of the tongue and lots of extract. This feels so fresh and clear and focused that it could also be freshly filled. The aroma is densely concentrated and complex, yet super focused and the opposite of fat. Saltiness on the lips, juicy, lively and fresh in the mouth. This is really fun from the first sip. With air, the bottle then shows its nature clearly. Every now and then a touch of nail polish remover and butter brittle between the unimpressed fruit. The fruit becomes more and more apple-like, with herbs that become the dominant note towards the end of the evening with some honey. The draught, which was there from the first moment, remains taut, spicy and long until the end. Wow.
Overnight the acidity has matured, it became rounder. On the palate there is now pineapple, the juiciness remains, the pressure and above all the depth as well. On the tongue sour apple, which then comes out slightly salty, spicy and with a hint of fruit sweetness that won’t disappear. Add Applecrumble in the nose, peach, then the grapefruit and you have the feeling that the first ripe notes are coming back with even more air. The way the bottle presents itself, the wine is only just starting to take off and is guaranteed to be fun for many more years to come, and it is more likely to gain than lose. But as it is now, you can easily open a bottle and be very, very happy.