At the house exhibition Perspektive Wein of the wine shop Kreis last year, I had planned, among other things, to try my hand at the Württemberger wines. At that time, we had already read quite a bit from the Lassak Winery, which was founded by Stefanie and Fabian Lassak in Hessigheim in 2016, but had never had anything in a glass ourselves. It’s a good thing that there are trade fairs, as a few bottles from Hessigheim found their way into our cellar after the tasting round. This time in the glass is the Lemberger Steige from 2017. Grown on limestone and clay marl in the Hessigheimer Steige, fermented spontaneously and then aged in used wood for 18 months, the wine ends up in the bottle.
Immediately after opening, the wine smells of mainly red, cooled fruit tea, rosehip, cherry and very little wood. Very cool and rather quiet than loud. If it is allowed time and air, red currant joins the nose, on the tongue there is a lot of structure, volume and depth showing. But always in relation to the restrained start, because one is far from fat or even jammy. Cool freshness dominates, a nice acidity carries the wine. There is spice and there is fruit. The wine is unagitated, lingers long on the palate and is in its own way also an intense experience. In between it starts pulling briefly, becomes a bit bulky on the tongue, only to end the evening calmly and elegantly again.
A night in the fridge has gifted the fruit wings. Much more cherry, fresh, juicy, cranberries, slightly less spice than on the first day. The acidity seems more concise, the cold fruit tea, which was already there immediately after opening, comes back. This fits now alright in winter, but it is certainly much nicer in summer slightly cooled on the balcony. And contrary to all fears, despite its slim elegance, it doesn’t falter next to a juice goulash with lots of onions braised in red wine, but harmonises beautifully with the fruit and the structure-giving spice. A Württemberger that you must try.
- Jürgen Ellwanger - Hebsacker Berg Lemberger 2016
- Two Bottles Kistenmacher & Hengerer
- Heid - Fellbacher Goldberg