I remember how it confused me at first contact with the wines of Christian Stahl that in the winery’s own quality pyramid the stainless steel (Edelstahl) stands above the Damascus steel (Damaszener) line. You might want to explain this to a knife maker, then shopping there would certainly be more pleasant for your wallet. But that’s the way it is and today in the glass is the Riesling Best Of from 2017, coming from the Edelstahl line. According to the label, the grapes grow in the Randersackerer Marsberg, a vineyard I had never heard of before. Matching the wine line, this wine is aged in stainless steel barrels and with more than 13% alcohol it is not necessarily a lightweight wine.
Despite this, the first nose is elegant, very fresh and rather cool, like most of the wines that we tried from Winzerhof Stahl up to now. There is minerality, there are herbs and some fruit. There is something reminiscent of sea breeze, at least of salty air, and this continues on the lips. The wine has a nice phenolic character, is incredibly juicy, has a crisp acidity and is clear, long and rather straightforward. You can drink it away just like that. In the finish there is a good deal of structure, which almost reminds you of wood, but which the wine has never seen a second of.
In the course of the evening it becomes more fruity, more yellow stone fruit, apricot maybe, in addition yeast pastry and more creaminess. On the palate it remains very drinkable with crisp acidity and power.
The more in the fruit department is confirmed on the second evening. There are apricots, greengages, some citrus, everything rather yellow, maybe a little unripe. The wine has lost none of its clarity. It is uncomplicated, but not undemanding. A bottle for most weekends of the year, gone faster than you can refill and something that you can always keep in the cellar.
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