16.2.2020

Fritz Haag - Brauneberg Juffer Sonnenuhr 2016

We drink from the Moselle from the winery Fritz Haag the Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Grosses Gewächs harvested in 2016.

Juffer Sonnenuhr is a smaller part of Brauneberger Juffer, which is considered to be a particularly good vineyard. It is a steep slope with about 10 hectares and mainly slate soil. The Fritz Haag winery produces the top of its dry Rieslings from this site and today in our glass we have a representative from 2016. The grapes are selectively harvested by hand, nothing else is possible on these steep slopes, and then mainly aged in large wooden barrels. The winery itself certifies that the wines have a great potential for maturation, which is of course not exhausted in any way with a 2016, it is at most a small peak into what’s possible.

The wine starts off intensely minerally, there is flint, spice, in addition light fruit and herbs. The wine is very clear and clean on the nose, very dense in the mouth, almost still a bit closed. An enormous amount of extract remains on the tongue forever. Of course there is acidity, but no Zing light sabre acidity, rather a harmonious counterpart to the powerful spice. A little citrus fruit, some grapefruit, maybe a little bergamot. And then this impressive length. I think that a little bit of bottle-ripening has done him a lot of good, as nice as everything works together.

In the course of the evening, the wine slowly becomes creamier and creamier and tart honey is added. The length and depth remain, the spiciness as well.

On the second day, what started on the first evening continues consistently. It has become even creamier on the nose, almost buttery for a moment, but that disappears again. It keeps the minerality, but now it has an intense, yellow, ripe fruit. Pineapple, mirabelles, whatever. One thinks that the length has almost increased. In the mouth it is clean, round, at the back of the palate but still with a lot of structure, a touch of bitterness, much less creamy compared to the nose. This is something to occupy you, to smell and taste again and again. A lot happens on the palate and in the nose. Lightly matured, harmonious, long and with lots of tension. Beautiful!

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