At the end of the year in the blog there is no sparkling wine, but once again Riesling. I had already mentioned several times how much I appreciate Ortswein in their level well above the entry level, but at the same time much cheaper and more easily accessible than the Grosses Gewächs of the respective wineries. And in addition, they give you a foretaste of what to expect when you have something bigger in your glass. So today, from Wagner-Stempel in Rheinhessen, the Ortswein from the porphyry. It has already matured a bit and was harvested in 2016.
In the nose there is exotic fruit, citrus, you think you smell a slight ripeness, some minerality but little flint. Despite the ripe fruit in the nose, the wine is super straight on the palate, acidity, structure, much less fruit than when smelling, but a powerful pull on the tongue. Slightly bitter notes, rather slim, elegant, straight forward. It stays in the mouth forever, saliva flows, pulls on the palate. In the mouth there is no sign of age. It tastes so young and fresh and paired with the dense fruit in the nose it is a real pleasure. This is Ortswein at top level.
With air, the nose becomes creamier as the evening progresses, the wine becomes fuller, deeper, nectarines appear, apple on the tongue, the structure and acidity remain fresh.
On the second day the flint is now there, the nose is stonier, yellow fruit, minerality. In the mouth incredibly juicy, a little softer than on the first day. The structure from the extract has changed, one almost senses something sweet. Nevertheless, the acidity of course still sets the tone. Pineapple and mirabelle are showing.
This is an intense, long wine, which is nevertheless elegant and slender on the palate. What more could one want from a Ortswein. Under the assumption that the Grosses Gewächs adds to this, I am really looking forward to the Heerkretz waiting in the cellar.