Natural wines, in addition to the increased risk of a taste catastrophy, also have the chance to really inspire in the glass, as already noted with the last bottle of Tschida. That must be the reason why natural wines keep finding their way into the cellar and then finally find their way onto the table. Today we are having Himmel auf Erden II by Christian Tschida. A mash-macerated, therefore more orangy, wine from Scheurebe and Weissburgunder from 2017. Actually, I don’t like Scheurebe that much usually.
But what finds its way into your nose has nothing to do with typical Scheurebe. You smell wet wood, some tannin and clearly black tea. Still a bit reserved in the nose. In the mouth already very clear, but then with a powerful structure out the back. There is some vegetable juice, the wine is puristically dry, yet so fresh, and almost filigree and incredibly difficult to grasp immediately after opening. It needs air.
After given it some time it opens up. It remains very fresh and herbal, the tannin, which is rather disturbing with so many other natural wines, is wonderfully integrated and enriching instead of irritating. In addition, there is a nice acidity, the wine has a pull on your palate and power. Again and again an almost exotic fruit appears between the herbs, perhaps honeydew melon, with spices. Stuff is happening on your palate, exciting.
On the second day, the tannin in the nose has receded far into the background, there is now home-made iced tea, herbs, peach, some dried mint, refreshing. In the mouth the tannin comes back, the wine is longer than it was on the first evening, rounder. The nose is really fun, the whole wine is really fun. Actually the ideal companion for the evening sun on the balcony, if only the season would play along. It can certainly also be matured in the bottle, but if there is some in the cellar, it is essential to bring it up and experience it now.