We already had an impressive Portugieser by Andreas Durst in the glass, now we had to find out if the Riesling can keep up. It was a stroke of luck that we got hold of a bottle of Grosser Durst from 2014, because the wines need their time in the cellar.
The first nose is rather dark, creamy, minimally fruity, really almost not at all, at most some pears, directly after pouring. It then disappears with having more air, making room for lots of minerality. There is stone and some petrol, you can slightly smell the time in the bottle. In the mouth the wine is very clear, straightforward, zero fruit but all the more structure with a great acidity. Very long and gripping on the tongue. The mixture of this acidity and the structure in the wine harmonises incredibly well and the play between the components remains forever on the tongue. This is really fun from the beginning.
In the course of the evening the minerality becomes more and more intense, lots of spice, but still this clarity in the mouth. Maybe a little grapefruit, a little citrus bitterness. In the nose a hint of warmth and softness, in the mouth more of the intensive acidity and structure. It becomes a real test of self-control to not empty the bottle in one sitting.
On the second day the wine has lost none of its power. It has become even fresher. Wet stone, the light matured notes and still this clarity with the powerful acidity, which immediately pulls everywhere you can pull on the palate and still never becomes unpleasant. The day of air contact brings freshly squeezed lemon juice to the stone. It’s a great accompaniment to liver sausage and home-baked rye bread. You can hardly tell the wine is old and you have the feeling that it can go on like this forever. Unfortunately this bottle is empty now.