At this year’s Mythos Mosel Rieslingreise the collection from the von Hövel winery located at the Saar has been remarkable. Reason enough to take a Riesling from the Kanzemer vineyard Hörecker, which is classified as a Grosse Lage, from the cellar and taste it. As a monopoly vineyard, the site is managed by the winery alone and is located in the middle of the Kanzemer Altenberg with an area of well under one hectare.
The first tasting sip directly after the bottle opening is still relatively closed, reserved, with rather dark aromas in the nose but powerful extract in the mouth. The panic of having taken the wine out of the cellar much too early showed up, but the bottle is open, no way back, so let’s see what the evening brings. Giving the first glass of wine some air to breath gives us hope. The wine benefits a lot from the aeration and becomes much brighter and clearer in the nose.
In any case it was a good decision to allow the wine some time in the open bottle. The nose changes from reserved and closed to wonderfully creamy, very dense with lots of yellow fruit. The extract in the mouth is even fuller and what is already dense and intense in the nose really comes into its own when drinking. Given the extract and the acid structure, the residual sugar, which is over 30 grams, is hardly noticeable. The wine is of course far away from dry, but the juiciness, the extract, the acidity, the sweetness fit really well. It remains on the palate for a long time, there is ripe apple, minerality, grapefruit, a lot of power and still very easy to drink and never exhausting.
On the second day, the spiciness has also clearly arrived in the nose, the wine is almost even denser than the evening before. In the mouth much more buttery, the creaminess that was already there on the first evening has intensified, melty, filling the mouth with every sip with the same length as before. The wine simply stays on the complete tongue, has spice, structure, actually relatively little fruit, the apple has moved into the background, but who needs fruit with such a mouthfeel, such length and so much structure. A great wine, which you could certainly leave lying around, but which also provides a lot of pleasure now.
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