I am skeptical about natural wine. Not because of the natural wine itself, quite the contrary, I think the philosophy is great, but I am most of the time afraid to order a total failure. That happens much less often with non-natural wines. Little to no intervention in the cellar and the basis of healthy grapes and the associated work in the vineyard certainly give less room for error. Spontaneous, untouched, unembellished, or even sometimes risky. Of course, you could simply taste beforehand, or just buy what you already know, but that would be boring, and so I often take the risk that something cruel might end up in the glass. Good, if you at least trust the dealer and then get something like this on the table. To be fair, I have to admit that I have already read a lot about the winemaker, so at least indirectly I have tried it before. In the glass today, Christian Tschida’s entry wine Kapitel I from 2016, a pure Cabernet Franc from Lake Neusiedl in Austria.
First association is the woody part of the vanilla pod lying in cellar muff, behind it are very ripe red cherries and the glaze of mulled wine slices. Somehow Christmas found its way into the glass here, wet wood, hay, yet very fresh. When drinking it, it is also fresh on the tongue and on the lighter side paired with a great red fruitiness and soft tannins. The wine is very long and becomes fuller and rounder in the mouth. In the course of the evening the nose is joined by root vegetables and wood, earth and cherries. The mouthfeel is quite an experience: clear, fresh, with edge and yet very soft.
On the second day, the cherry is dominated by a vegetable note in the nose, still very full and fresh in the mouth. Unfortunately the tannin is not as well integrated on the second day as it was on the first evening. The wine needs a bit more time and air to become round again. But then it provides just as much pleasure. Soulfood in bottles. After bottles like these I am really happy that natural wine exists.
- Christian Tschida - Birdscape 2019
- Heinrich - Chardonnay Leithaberg 2014
- Heinrich - Muscat Freyheit 2017